chapter four · visiting

Chapter Four: Visiting Lighthouses, Set Down Plainly

Many lights open their doors, and a quiet, friendly community gathers around them. This is the visitor's file: where to go, when to go, and how to conduct yourself on a working station.

lighthouse weekendAugustThird full weekend, worldwide
heritage daysSeptemberOpen days across Europe
hatteras moved1999Relocated inland from the surf
cordouan listed2021UNESCO World Heritage

Before you set out

Nearly every lighthouse you can visit is still a working aid to navigation, or stands beside one. Opening is therefore governed by the operator, which may be a lighthouse authority, a heritage charity, a local council or a friends' group. Check the operator's own website for opening days, which are often seasonal, and for limits on children's height or age in the lantern. Expect steep spiral stairs, frequently a hundred steps or more, and narrow galleries. Some stations are reached by causeway or boat, so tides and weather decide whether you can go at all.

A short shelf of open towers

The list below is a starting point rather than a census. Each place is real and has received visitors in recent years, but arrangements change, so confirm before travelling.

  • Smeaton's Tower, Plymouth Hoe, England
    The upper part of the 1759 Eddystone tower, rebuilt on land; climb to the lantern for views of the Sound.
  • Souter Lighthouse, Whitburn, England
    Run by the National Trust; an early electric station of 1871 with engine room and keepers' quarters.
  • Museum of Scottish Lighthouses, Fraserburgh
    Beside Kinnaird Head, the Northern Lighthouse Board's first light; a fine lens collection.
  • Hook Head, County Wexford, Ireland
    Guided tours of a medieval tower with walls several metres thick.
  • Tower of Hercules, A Coruña, Spain
    The Roman lighthouse, with an interpretation centre at its base.
  • Cordouan, Gironde estuary, France
    Seasonal boat trips from Royan and Le Verdon-sur-Mer, timed to the tide.
  • Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, USA
    Moved inland in 1999; climbing seasons vary and restoration has closed it in some years.
  • Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Seen from the granite shore rather than inside; one of the most photographed lights in Canada.

Open days and lighthouse weekends

Several recurring events make otherwise closed stations accessible. In England, Heritage Open Days in September open many buildings that are normally private, and European Heritage Days run in the same month across much of Europe. Local lighthouses frequently take part, so watch the regional listings in summer.

International Lighthouse and Lightship Weekend takes place on the third full weekend of August. Amateur radio operators set up temporary stations at lighthouses and lightships around the world and contact one another; visitors are generally welcome to watch, ask questions and, where licences allow, take part. It is one of the easiest ways to meet people who share the interest.

Societies and gatherings

Much of the mingling happens through societies. The Association of Lighthouse Keepers in the United Kingdom brings together former keepers and enthusiasts, publishes a journal and organises visits. The United States Lighthouse Society runs tours and supports preservation, and the World Lighthouse Society connects members internationally. Many individual lighthouses have friends' groups that run talks and volunteer days; joining one is a practical way to learn the history of a single station in depth.

Station etiquette

  • Stay outside fences and locked compounds; automated equipment and helipads are not part of the visit.
  • Do not fly drones near a station without the operator's permission, especially where helicopters land.
  • Keep voices low near former keepers' cottages, which are often private homes or holiday lets.
  • Watch the tide on causeways and keep to marked paths on cliff-top sites.
  • Take nothing from the site and leave nothing behind.

Staying overnight

Former keepers' cottages are let as holiday accommodation at many stations in Britain, Ireland and beyond. A night beside a working light, watching the beam turn above you, is the closest most of us will come to a keeper's watch.